South African O&E team rider Matt Bromley headed to Ireland to film the most recent release of his ‘Risky Ripples’ webisode. Surfing Mullaghmore!
What’s it like paddling into a Mully bomb?
Mullaghmore is one of the most intimidating waves I’ve ever surfed. The sets march into the bay, growing out of super deep water. As a wave hits the first reef, it stops and bubbles onto the slab, throwing a massive barrel, which you take off next to. The real good ones look like closeouts, as the wall stretched all the way to the ski’s in the channel. I remember bottom turning on a few big ones, and it feels like the whole ocean is sucking off the reef. As you lock in, the bottom of the wave drops out, and you have to negotiate a boil or a step, depending on how low the tide it. This the sling shots you into the money section which is round and thick, like the Teahupoo west bowl but taller. The wave is a rush from start to finish, and a lot of the time you have to get barrelled to make it. Its one of the craziest, scariest and most unpredictable waves I’ve surfed and keeps me coming back each year in the hope of a nugget.
How were the Irish Crew?
The local boys are amazing. If you give them time and respect, they will treat you like a brother. Like many places, when the waves are big, they have a dedicated water safety team looking out for you and giving you lifts in and out. After the sessions, everyone heads to the bar for a pint for more good vibes.
It’s the best feeling when you paddling down a big one and the locals are shouting you in at the top of their lungs.
What does an Irish quiver look like?
Ireland is difficult to pack a board bag for. They literally have every wave you can imagine, from point breaks, high-performance pebble peaks, beaches and slabs, as well as the odd tow wave, outer bombie. I leave my 8’2 Mully gun over there and then take everything from a shortboard to a 7’2. All the boards have heavy glassing for extra weight in the windy sessions and quad setups for steep, under the lip take-offs. I take a selection of Ocean And Earth ONE-XT leashes as I know I can trust them in longest of hold downs.
Credits: Filmed and directed by @Kaineder and additional shots by @guy_mac